Another cloudless morning as the sun comes up over the Atlantic. There’s a very gentle breeze drifting by, bringing along the smell of the ocean. (And I’m not talking about the smell of low tide. 🙂 )
Yesterday I gave surfing a try. First time in oodles of years. My last time out – eons ago – I bashed my chin on the board and had to get 7 stitches. Bummer way to retire from surfing.
But the waves here have been flowing in nicely everyday – not too large, not to small. There have been a few folks surfing, and they made it look like fun. The rental place on the beach had some “soft” boards with some kind of cushy surface.
So…I had to give it a go. I figured that even if I didn’t stand on the board at least I’d get a lot of good exercise.
It was fun.
And it was also a lot of hard work. The waves were coming in in pretty tight groups, not leaving much time between each. Getting out just past where they were starting to break was a bit of a challenge.
I felt like a little kid trying to ride a bike, just trying to stay on top of the board while laying down, crashing into the waves as I paddled out. With my 8 foot floating log I couldn’t deftly submerge beneath the breaking waves like the cool guys do, so I had to try to go over the break. As a result I spent a lot of time climbing back on the board after getting knocked off.
But I’d eventually make it to the primo spot, sit up on the board like all the other pro surfers do, and wait for the ultimate wave.
I spent two hours in the water. I spent a total of about 10 seconds standing up. My longest “ride” (if you could call it that) was about 3 seconds long.
Hey, I stood up, though.
So this morning? Yeah, I might have to give it another go. I watched some guys yesterday evening as the sun set. They would pop up almost immediately. I realized I was waiting way too long before trying to stand. And I was too far back on the board, making the tail plow through the water whenever I’d start to stand. (And my feet were too close together, and my knees weren’t bent, and I was facing forward instead of sideways, and . . . the list could go on forever.)